SIGIRIYA


The Rock Fortress Sigiriya

Sigiriya, the Lion Rock or the Lion Mountain 360 meters above sea level and 200 meters above the surrounding plain. Is about 80km south of Anuradhapura City, where stands at very centre of Sri Lanka, encircled by mountains, forests and manmade lakes. It is essentially a fortified Royal Capital of one of the King in 5th century. The patricide King Kassapa (475-497 AD) is unique character and creative genius. He founded his Palace on the top this huge bolder rock and built his City surrounding the rock. The remaining of the Royal palace and other courtly buildings are covering an area of three & half hectares.   
The grandeur of Sigiriya lies in its distinctive features such as the Royal palace on the summit of the rock, the skilfully planned and engineered ascent to the palace through a brick built massive lion figure, beautiful paintings of celestial nymphs drawn on the plastered walls. The remaining paintings are in an un-accessible cave half way up the rock, which the visitor can reach only by the modern spiral stairway., the highly polished mirror wall of the Gallery on which the thoughts and emotions of the visitors to the rock who came to see the paintings during 8th to 13th centuries were recorded, the bolder gardens at the foot of the rock with caves distributed unevenly on the western side, the symmetrically or geometrically planed water gardens, mathematically planed fortification and layout consisting of 2 moats and the rampart system surrounded the entire City with elaborate gateways from 3 sides in which two are large enough for elephants and vehicular traffic.
In its totality, therefore, today Sigiriya provide us with classic example of a unique concentration of 5th century town planning, landscaping, gardening, engineering and hydrologic, technology, architecture, art and literature, thereby forming a cultural museum of the 5th century Sri Lanka.
Apart from the existing and fascinating rock at Sigirya, a visitor who enters by the Western entrance through a drawbridge can notice that there are four types of garden elements.

        I.            Water gardens
      II.            Boulder Gardens
    III.            Terrace Gardens
    IV.            Palace Gardens

Water Gardens
Water gardens can be divides itself into three parts demarcating its boundaries by stepped terraces. The first part of the water garden that lies close to the Western entrance is divided into two equal parts by an axial pathway leading towards the rock. On the either side of the pathway are built four symmetrically planned ponds.
The most exciting part of the water garden is its second portion which can be called the ‘’Fountain Garden.’’ The western half of which has two long and deep pools with stepped cross-sections. Shallow serpentine streams paved with marble slabs drain into these pools. These serpentines are punctuated by fountains made of circular limestone plates with symmetrical perforations. The underground water conduits feed these fountains and operate purely on the principle of gravity and pressure. Even today these fountains operate during the rainy season.
The third portion of the water garden is an extensive area on a higher level, access to which is provided with a flight of steps. Place almost at the centre of the terrace. To the north is a large spectacular octagonal pond at the base of a towering boulder on the western side of which is a horizontally cut drip ledge indicating that it once had some sort of structure of the remains of a ‘’bathing pavilion.’’
The water garden ends up with a massive brick and stone wall pierced by wide entrance with flight of steps leading to the boulder garden. To the North and South of the ‘’fountain gardens’’ lie two moated islands on which there seems have been a well planned structures perhaps summer palaces  of the water gardens. The excavation of the southern moated island has revealed a central structure surrounded by a single row of pedestals that once held columns, forming a colonnade around the building. The entrance to this structure is marked by a moonstone still in situ.

The Boulder Garden
The Boulder garden is situated on a higher level than the water gardens. The natural beauty of Sigiriya lies in this boulder garden which is entirely organic and asymmetrical, comprising several winding pathways, some leading to the main rock. It seems that human hand has never attempted to alter or remove the existing positions of these boulders but utilise them for human needs by constructing buildings or pavilions set upon them. Today what we see as steps and drains or honey combs of holes on the side or tops of these boulders are in fact that foundations or footings of ancient brick walls and timber columns and beams. But unfortunately none of these structures on the boulders survive today.
Many of these boulders have rock shelters beneath them originally fashioned by the early lay devotees and offered to early Buddhist monks. Some of these rock shelters still bear trace of paintings. Noteworthy feature in this area is the use of some boulders to form an Audience Hall which has flattered summit, on which a large 5 meter long throne is carved out of the living rock showing the degree of rich technological skills of the stone masons of the day. The boulder adjoining the ‘’Audience Hall’’ provides another example how the ancients have utilised boulder tops to build cisterns. Another interesting example of a boulder being used for the meeting of human needs is the ‘’Preaching Rock’’ the summit of which exhibits a honey comb of port holes  indicating a structure over the boulder.

Third garden - The Terrace Gardens
The terrace gardens have been fashioned out of the natural hill at the base of the Sigiriya rock. These terraces are formed by means of rubble retaining walls. On the west terrace garden lie the brick built staircases leading the way upto the summit of the rock through the gallery and the precipitous side of the main rock. This staircase first lead onto the ‘’Lion Staircase Plateau’’ where we can see the remains of a great brick built lion figure which gave Sigiriya its name.

The fourth garden – Palace Garden
Palace garden elements at Sigiriya is located on the summit in the form of terrace and rock cut water pools designed as the domestic garden of the palace of the King.

The history of Sigiriya extends from about the 3rd century BC to the 19th century AD. In its earliest phase it was monastic settlement. In the 5th century AD, it became the Capital of Sri Lanka for brief period, under King Kassapa I (475-497 AD). This was the major constructional phase of Sigiriya during which the present name came into being. Subsequently, after Kassapa’s death, it was turned back in to a monastic settlement. This post Kassapan period seems to have lasted till 13th century. Sigiriya Graffiti prove beyond doubt that it was the paintings which become the main attraction of Sigiriya during the period. The visitors from all over Sri Lanka had come here as pleasure seekers and their thought and emotions were recorded in the Graffiti.  Paranavithana deciphered nearly 700 of them. They are amongst the earliest literacy compositions in the Sinhala language preserving the form of day to day poetry rather than official inscriptions or religious literature. After the 13th century Sigiriya disappears for a time from the history of Sri Lanka until, in the 16th or 17th century it appears as a distant outpost (16th-19th centuries). The last phase at Sigiriya begins with the modern recovery in the 1830’s by antiquarians and archaeologists, the first modern reference to Sigiriya being that of Forbes in the 1830s. The first excavations were carried out by HCP Bell. The first Archaeological commissioner of Sri Lanka in the 1890s and the work continued off and on ever since.

The Sigiriya Cultural Triangle Project, one of the six projects of the UNESCO- Sri Lanka Cultural Triangle Program was inaugurated in January 1982. This project is administrated by two agencies.

The University of Kelaniya Archaeological team (archaeological direction, excavation, documentation and research) and Messrs. Selvarathnam & Perera Architectural Consultants (conservation and layout and peripheral area development) and presided over by the Director General of the cetral cultural fund. The principle objectives of this project are the excavations, conservation and landscaping of the Sigiriya complex. This project when completed will give us a better understanding of the history and character of this unique site and make its various aspects more comprehensible to the thousands of visitors who come to see Sigiriya, the lion mountain.
By Eranga Jayasinghe 
* Ref - Taken by the lecture notes of CTB/NTGL course 1998  - writer - HT Basnayake 
*Pictures copied from the Google images 

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