Sunday, August 25, 2019

Trincomalee [Sinhala: ත්‍රිකුණාමළය / Gokanna : ගෝකන්න ]


Trincomalee is famous for its beautiful beach, Pigeon Island a marine reserve, Whale watching, Konesswaram Hindu Temple, Dutch Fortress, Ancient Buddhist Temples, Hot water wells, and many more. The city is located about 108 km northeast of Dambulla, and about 134 km North of Batticaloa, the other famous beach in the Eastern province. Trinco is the Capital of the Eastern province.

The Location of the Trincomalee Harbor and the Airport strategically creates greater tension among the Western powerful nations and the Eastern rising powers, They look to take control of the region and the  Indian Ocean. The harbor was an important gateway to the Island for both the Western and Eastern traders since early times. The natural deep-water harbor has attracted seafarers like Marco Polo, Ptolemy, and sea traders from China and Eastern Asians since its ancient times. 

The conversion of Gokanna between “Tirukonamalai” first appears in a Tamil inscription dated to the 10th or 11th century AD. The ancient Buddhist temple at Gokanna called Sri Gokanna Vihara built during the reign of King Mahasen (276-303) was the earliest religious construction in Trincomalee. Being on a rock it was called Vehergala. The temple was expanded by King Agbo (718-724 AD). In the 10th & 11th centuries, Hindu influences took place to a greater extent, and the Portuguese demolished both Buddhist and Hindu temples making South Asia’s biggest fortress in Trincomalee.
By Eranga Jayasinghe


Seruvila Royal Buddhist Temple (Raja Maha Vihara)

An ancient Royal Patronage Buddhist Temple situated near the west side of Ullackalie Lagoon in Trincomalee district in the Eastern province of Sri Lanka.
Can reach there in several ways, from Trincomalee 44 km towards the south on the A-15 national roadway, and then B-347 (by B-347, 50 km) or the next road after the B-347 towards the south. From Kantale it is about 51 km on the B-10 roadway towards the east. From Polonnaruwa, it is about 121 km by the A-11 roadway towards the east and then the A-15 roadway towards the north. From Batticaloa just 97 km by A-15 strait towards the north.  

What is enshrined in the Stupa (Pagoda) - The sacred forehead relic of Lord Buddha.
History
The King Kawantissa of Ruhuna in the 2nd century BC, received the sacred relic for his custody and patronage through the lineage of his royal ancestors.  By the wish of Lord Buddha the King brought the Relic from Magampura to the present premises at the border of ‘’Seru Lake’’ which is close to the Rock Cave ‘’Waraha’’ on the right bank of the Mahaweli River.

The records of ancient chronicles such as Pali Nȧlata Dhatuwansa, Jinakalamali, and Sinhala Dhatuwansa explain that The Lord Gauthama Buddha visited here with five hundred Arahath (enlightened) monks on his 3rd visit to Sri Lanka in the 8th year after becoming the Great Buddha hood. The Buddha has explained to his disciples of historical relations of the place, where the former three Buddha hoods of this eon Kukusandha, Konagama, and Kashayapa Buddha’s relics were enshrined here in Mangala Vihara. The Buddha and the 500 disciples sat down there in Samadhi positioned for some time and ordered to have his own relic here at the same place in the future. After the ending of Samadhi meditation Buddha has given orders to the Naga King ‘’Sumana’’ who came together with Buddha to bless and care the place. Since then King Sumana has started dwelling in the area with his huge force. Having heard the story, mother of the King Sumana ‘’Queen Indaka’’ of the Naga dynasty arrived here with her 12000 ladies of the Naga dynasty to support her son.

The story of the relic

Buddha has attended Nibbana after 45 years of Great salvation given to billions of people. He took his last breath at the Sala Grove of King Malla of Kusinara. The Kings organized the cremation ceremony at the Grove lifting a sandalwood crematorium to keep the Buddha’s body. After the cremation were able to collect eight Kurunis (kind of large bowl) of sacred relics.
Sometime later King Ajasatta, King Lechchavi, and five other Kings were demanding a war against King Malla to have the sacred Relics of Buddha for themselves. Having heard the bad news the teacher of King Malla Wiseman ‘’Dhrona’’ was able to prevent the situation controlling Kings to come to a peaceful decision dividing Relics into eight portions. All the Kings were happy to share Sacred Relics and the sacred forehead Relic was in the portion of King Malla.
Arahath Maha Kashapa Thera comes to know the wish of Buddha Hood, he explains his divine wish to the King, there is going to build a Mangala Maha Vihara in Lanka Dveepa on the right banks of the Mahaweli River by the King Kavantissa. Therefore the forehead relic is needed to be there to complete the mission. For that purpose, I demanded the relic of the forehead. Then Maha Kashapa ordered his student Thera ‘’Mahananda’’ to carry the relic up to the Mahavana Vihara at Visala Maha Nuwara where the Buddha Hood lived his last journey. He continued venerations and daily offerings until his last breath at the same temple. At his last, he demanded his fellow Thera ‘’ Chandragupta’’ to continue venerations. Thera, Chandragupta had taken the relic to Jethavana Vihara at Sevath Nuvara to continue the venerations and daily offerings where the Buddha hood used to live earlier. At the end of his life, he was asking his fellow Thera ‘’Baddhasean’’ to continue the rituals. He took the relic to Isipatana Rama temple where Buddha preached the Damsak Pawathum Sutra* and then his fellow Thera ‘’Jayasena’’ continued the rituals at Veluwana  Ramaya Temple. Likewise his fellow Thera ‘’Sangarakkita’’ continue to do the rituals at Poshita Ramaya in Kosamba Nuwara. At last, his fellow Thera Mahadeva took care of the relic for delivery to Lanka Dveepa.
It was the reign of King Devanampiyatissa and his younger brother Prince Mahanaga ruling the area of Ruhuna from Magama as a sub-king. Thera Mahadeva arrived by air down to the shades of Sal Tree on the mountain called Kukkuta Pawuva at Hattota village in Magama. Having heard of the arrival of Thera village man Mahakala visited to venerate the relic. He was delighted venerated by heart, and performed pooja for the sacred relic. Sub-King Mahanaga was wowed to see the relic and was able to bring the relic to the palace by Perahara festival with the permission of Mahadeva Thera and Mahakala, the village man. He built a relic temple to deposit the relic near the palace and performed venerations and pooja to the sacred relic. After his reign, his son King Yatalatissa, his son King Gotabaya and then his son King Kavantissa continued the veneration and pooja to the sacred relic accordingly.

King Kavantissa in his old age been advised by the arahath Thera ‘’ChullapindaPathika’’ brother of Queen Viharamaha Devi to deposit the relic where Buddha has wished on his visit to Lanaka Dveepa. 
King completed the Maha Mangala Stupa at the right place and delivered the sacred relic by Perahara via Digamadulla to Seruvila. Regional Kings Sivaraja of Seru Nuwara, Mahanaga of Lona Nuwara, and Giri Abaya of Soma Nuwara have given patronage by supporting King Kavantissa to complete the mission to enshrine the forehead relic into the Maha Stupa. The temple named after the King, Eastern Tissa Maha Rama, completed with a Bodhi Tree, Shrine room, and monastic complex continued as a major Buddhist temple in the Island. It is said that King Kavantissa will be the father of future Maithree Bodhisattva a Wiseman ‘’Subrahmana’’ and Queen Viharamaha Devi will be the mother of Bodhisattva ‘’Brahmwathi’’ in the future.
As time passed Sri Lanka was invaded by Chola, Pandiyans, Portuguese, and Dutch who continued to destroy many of the Buddhist temples including this sacred place. Huge destructions caused to move people from the area where abandoned for centuries covering the area with thick jungle.

In the early 20th century, Honourable ‘’Gintota Sri Seelakanda’’ MahaNayaka Maha Thera of Dodandoowe Cylabimba Ramaya* is reading Buddhist Puskola Poth* in his Arama. He was astonished when found Pali Nalata Dathuwansa & Sinhala Dathuwansa revealing the sacred relic of Buddha hood. Honorable Maha Thera called his favorite student ‘’DhambagasAre Sumedhankara’’ there gave directions to take care of the sacred relic. The student Thera followed the instruction of his teacher and departed for the journey in a steamship from the Galle harbor to Trincomalee in the Buddhist year 2464 (1921 CA), after arriving there he continued to walk up to the Seruvila through the thick jungle searching the Seruvila (lake) boundaries. After completing life life-threatening journey he was able to find the completely destroyed mountain in the thick jangle near Seru Lake which enshrined the forehead relic of Lord Buddha. He started clearing the jungle around and re-found temple premises for conservation. He brought people to the area reclaiming cultivating lands around the temple again in the surrounding area of Seruvila. Development work has taken place and a new temple was completed with the help of all Sri Lankan people protecting the MahaStupa which enshrined the forehead relic of Lord Buddha. The prominent Buddhist Monk appointed as the Mahanayaka Thera of Sri Kalyanawansa MahaNikaya, in his old age passed his duty to his favorite student ‘’Seruvila Saranikitti’’ Thera to keep the continuation of venerations, offerings, and development work of the temple and the area. After completing his mission he took his last breath in peace.

In years after, meantime there began brutal attacks on the people on the Island by a monster killer terrorist leader Prabakaran in the North of Sri Lanka. Monster Killer and his brutal army have killed millions of innocent people around the country with the help of local and foreign conspiracies to destroy the country's peace process. Monster killer Velupillei Prabakaran became the Governor of the North and Eastern areas of this Island killing all people outside his race, people started moving from the area to safe places. Paddy fields become muddy lands, jangle started growing, and the MahaStupa started to be abandoned again, meantime Thera Seruvila Saranikitti is working on a project to claim the site as a world heritage from UNESCO to protect the relic stupa by addressing people around the world, never afraid to terrorist threats continue to take care of the Maha Stuap, ready for scarifies himself for his master’s sake and the pure honour to the Lord Buddha’s sacred relic.

The leaders of the local Government intervened in to situation demanding Thera to leave the area for life. He denied the request putting himself to the guardian protector of the Maha Stupa.

Velupillei Prabakaran came to a new decision of stopping the water supply to the area by closing the Mavil Aru water channel threatening all Sri Lankans again for a brutal attack. Seruvila Saranikitti stood up for a reaction walk up to the water supply gate to request terrorists to open the waterway but didn’t work. Thera continues to sit down on the gateway until the terrorist opens the water supply to the village committing himself to the mouth of monsters.

President Mahinda Rajapakse’s decision was finalized after trying all kinds of peaceful negotiations to open the water supply to the village. His forces routed all brutal terrorists including the leader within 2 years and 10 months who has continued killing for the last 30 years on this Island.
The sacred relic came to a safe inside the Maha Stupa, villages backing up slowly into normal life with the great vision of all people in Sri Lanka.

By Eranga Jayasinghe

Ref: I have taken this complete story from the rock inscription at the site in Sinhala Language, and translated it to English with the hope of doing the best to its valuable language.
The inscription was written by the retired Professor M W Vimal Vijerathne of Sinhala and the media department of the University of Jayawardenapura to fulfill the request done by the Honourable Mahanayake Seruvila Mangala Maha ViharaAdikari, Lecturer of Rathnapura National Education Centre ‘’Munhene Mettarama’’ Thera for compact story of the sacred forehead relic of Lord Buddha.
The cost of this inscription is borne by Palugama Edmond Perris Mr, Batepola Badhuhene Hemakumara Amarasekara Mr, and Mrs. Chandani Rathnayake of Indurana.   



Velgama Vihara 

This temple is situated on Trincomalee Anuradhapura road (A12) about 15 km Northeast of Trincomalee town. There is a sine board erected on the A-12 highway at the beginning of the B-447 secondary road running towards the ancient temple complex. 

The archaeological heritage found in the 19th century and conservation work has been taken place since then. However, the LTTE (Liberation Tamil Tigers of Elam) controlled of area for the last 30 years until September 2009, when the temple was again abandoned. In the year 2000, there was a brutal attack by LTTE killing many innocent devotees including children for no reason. Chief monk is surviving after serious surgery from the attack.

According to the archaeological explanations this temple was built here during the 3rd century BC by King Devanampiyatissa who ruled the country from Anuradhapura and was known as who become the first Buddhist in modern history of the country. Architectural designs and building planning are very similar to the ruins found in Anuradhapura in the same period.
The temple has been renovated and developed by many Kings and Quins from the Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa periods with good evidence of Hindu architectural influences.

A rock inscription was found at the temple in the Tamil language, proving that there were Tamil Buddhist devotees who looked after this temple in the early centuries. According to some historians, that inscription story is about a Tamil cattle farming lady who donated her income to the temple after selling her cow milk.
The temple was completed with all elements of Buddhist temples including the Bodhi Tree, Relic Chamber (Thupa), and Image house. There are two images of Buddha, a reclining statue and a standing statue in the main shrine room. The main shrine building is more influenced by South Indian architecture. At the entrance of the shrine room could see 4 smaller shrine rooms on both sides believed to have placed 4 images of Buddhas' of this eon.
Unfortunately, all statues were destroyed including the building itself but the main statue at the center remains in good condition in Abya Muddra.
The reclining Buddha statue only be considered from the remaining brickwork which is not be able to understood some one who is not familiar with Buddhist monuments. 
Bodhi Tree premises are easy to identify with its wall and the decoration but there is no Bodhi Tree alive anymore at the premises.
The Relic chamber has been destroyed, which was restored up to certain level to indicate the fact that a complete Stupa was rising to the sky. Relics enshrined here are not sure where I haven't found any related story yet.

By: Eranga Jayasinghe 
Ref: I visited the temple with 13 Canadian and American tourists on 10th April 2013. They came on a cruise to the Trincomalee port and we went on a sightseeing tour. We met the chief monk and he told us the story of the LTTE attack in the year 2000. In a small room at the temple display some pictures taken soon after the attack. Also, he showed us, the healed wounded marks on his stomach by the Tamil Tigers' attack.
Historic relations were briefed by Mr. Hettiarachchi who is a retired officer of the Sri Lanka Tourism Authority on the day before when we visited the site for pre-studies of the history.     

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